Feeling cool in Iceland

Just before Christmas, my daughter Mathilde and I escaped to Iceland for four unforgettable nights: a short break that felt wonderfully long on memories.

We landed in Reykjavík and, as I always recommend (and book) for my customers, we headed out on a Northern Lights trip on our very first night. It is the best way to do it: if the lights do not make an appearance, you can rebook on subsequent nights free of charge, giving you several chances to catch that elusive green shimmer dancing across the sky. There is something so special about starting a winter trip with that sense of anticipation.

It was bitterly cold during our stay, and our whale watching tour was unfortunately cancelled due to the weather. Instead of being disappointed, we headed down to the harbour and booked The Lava Show. It turned out to be absolutely fascinating, with the heat, light and stories bringing Iceland’s volcanic heart to life in a very real, very dramatic way.

Much of the magic of Reykjavík is simply in wandering. We strolled the colourful streets, ducking into cafés and shops to warm up, and made a pilgrimage to taste the most famous cinnamon buns in the city at Brauð & Co on Frakkastígur 16. Fresh from the oven, sticky, buttery and fragrant, they were every bit as good as their reputation. Just a short walk away is the cathedral, which we visited afterwards: a calm, striking landmark that feels like the city’s quiet guardian.

One of our days was devoted to a classic Golden Circle tour by bus. It is a perfect way to see some of Iceland’s greatest hits in a single day: geysers erupting into the icy air, powerful waterfalls thundering through the snow, and vast open landscapes that make you feel very small in the best possible way. Sharing that with Mathilde, wrapped up in layers and laughing at how the wind nearly blew us sideways, is something I will always treasure.

One evening we visited Hvammsvík hot springs, and this became a real highlight. Set among serene coastal scenery, the pools feel beautifully natural and peaceful, with an atmosphere that is far less commercial than the Blue Lagoon. Sitting in the warm water, steam rising around us, looking out over the dark winter sea and sky, felt wonderfully grounding and intimate: mother and daughter, slowing down together at the edge of the world.

We flew home to the UK on Christmas Eve, straight back into our annual pub meet with friends, cheeks still pink from the Icelandic cold and heads full of new stories. Those four nights gave us not just a break from the pre-Christmas rush, but a set of shared memories that I know we will both hold on to for years.