Chasing the Northern Lights in Finnish Lapland: My Snowmobile Adventure in Kilpisjarvi

My February adventure to Finnish Lapland was one of those unforgettable Lapland winter adventures that stays with you long after you return home.

I travelled with my friend Claire and within hours of arriving we both knew this was going to be something special. The combination of dramatic Arctic scenery, exhilarating winter activities and the possibility of seeing the magical Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights in Lapland, made it feel like stepping into another world.

The experience was so memorable that I will actually be hosting this exact trip myself in February 2027. If the Northern Lights are on your bucket list, or you simply fancy an adventure somewhere truly different, this is a wonderful way to experience Lapland.

First Glimpse of the Arctic

Our journey took us to the tiny Arctic airport at Enontekiö, followed by a two hour transfer to the remote village of Kilpisjärvi, close to the borders of Sweden and Norway.

Lapland welcomed us with perfect blue skies and a temperature of minus 18°C. It was crisp, bright and unbelievably beautiful. Along the way we stopped to collect our Arctic suits and thermal boots which would become our essential uniform for the next few days.

The real moment that made us pause came during the transfer. Out across the snow covered landscape the sky exploded into the most incredible Arctic sunset. Shades of pink and orange reflected off the frozen ground and for a moment the entire horizon seemed to glow. It felt like a proper arrival moment, the kind that instantly reminds you why you travel.

By the time we reached the cosy Tundrea Hotel we were ready for dinner and a warm drink. There was no sign of the Northern Lights that first evening, but after a welcome briefing about the days ahead we happily settled in for an early night, knowing the real adventure was just beginning.

Life in the Arctic

One of the things that makes this part of Lapland so fascinating is its deep cultural heritage. The following morning we visited a traditional reindeer camp run by a member of the Sámi people, the indigenous community of the region.

Gathered around an open fire, we listened to stories about life as a reindeer herder and the centuries old traditions that still shape daily life in the Arctic. Meeting the reindeer themselves was a highlight. They are surprisingly gentle and inquisitive animals, and feeding them before heading off on a sleigh ride through the snowy forest felt wonderfully peaceful.

Back in Kilpisjärvi later that afternoon we had time to explore the tiny village. There is a small shopping area with a sports shop that is perfect if you have forgotten anything warm, alongside a well stocked supermarket selling everything from snacks to souvenirs. It is small but charming and has everything you might need during your stay.

Snowmobiles and Arctic Darkness

That evening we experienced one of the most exciting activities of the trip. Snowmobiling across the Arctic tundra in search of the Northern Lights.

After a safety briefing, helmets and balaclavas firmly in place, we set off in convoy behind our guide. Driving a snowmobile for the first time in the dark is slightly daunting at first. There is something about the vast, silent landscape that makes everything feel very real very quickly. But within minutes we found our rhythm and the sense of freedom was incredible.

The trail took us deep into the wilderness where we stopped at a traditional wooden kota to warm up with hot berry juice and doughnuts. The Aurora forecast was strong that night so we waited hopefully, scanning the sky.

The cloud cover had other ideas and only allowed us the faintest glimpse of green light. While we may have missed the full show that evening, the snowmobile journey itself was unforgettable and we returned to the hotel feeling exhilarated.

The Arctic Ritual: Sauna and Ice Swimming

The next day brought clearer skies and fresh optimism.

Before our afternoon adventure we treated ourselves to the hotel’s private sauna and jacuzzi. This turned out to be a beautifully cosy space with an open fire, comfortable seating and views across the frozen lake.

The traditional Arctic ritual is simple. Heat up in the sauna, step outside into the crisp winter air, and then plunge into icy water before warming up again.

Naturally we had to try it.

After building up our courage we ran across the snow and plunged into the ice hole cut into the frozen lake. The experience can best be described as shocking, exhilarating and strangely addictive. Within seconds we were racing back to the steaming outdoor jacuzzi laughing and wondering whether we would ever feel our toes again.

Snowmobiling to Three Countries

Later that afternoon we headed out on another snowmobile adventure, this time towards the famous Three Borders Point where Finland, Sweden and Norway meet.

The weather had turned colder and windier so we added an extra windproof cape over our Arctic suits, which made us look slightly like Michelin men but kept us wonderfully warm.

The journey across the snow covered landscape was spectacular. White hills stretched endlessly into the distance and the silence of the Arctic felt almost surreal. Reaching the border point was a fun moment, standing in three countries at once before warming up again with hot berry juice and sweet treats.

The Night the Sky Came Alive

After dinner that evening everything suddenly became very exciting.

One of the group rushed into the restaurant telling us to come outside immediately. The Northern Lights had appeared.

We abandoned our meals and ran out into the cold. In my excitement I had forgotten both my coat and gloves which was definitely not my wisest decision. At first the lights were faint, but unmistakable.

Later that evening, as we walked back towards our cabin, the sky suddenly transformed. Ribbons of green and blue light began to dance across the sky above the snowy cabins. It was one of those moments that completely stops you in your tracks.

We wandered down to the frozen lake to watch the display away from any lights. For over an hour the sky shimmered and shifted in a silent performance that felt almost unreal. One of our fellow travellers was a photographer and managed to capture some wonderful images for us, which felt like a lovely bonus to an already magical moment.

By the time we finally headed to bed close to midnight we were tired, freezing and completely delighted.

Photo Credit: Ian Skelton Photography

A Short Trip That Feels Like a True Adventure

Our final morning arrived far too quickly. After breakfast we transferred back to Enontekiö, a tiny and rather charming airport with a small café and gift shop that still had Christmas decorations on display.

Three nights in Lapland had somehow managed to feel both relaxing and adventurous at the same time. Snowmobiles, reindeer, saunas, icy swims and the unforgettable moment when the Northern Lights finally appeared.

Join Me in February 2027

Because the experience was so special, I will be hosting this exact trip myself in February 2027.

It is perfect for couples, groups of friends or anyone who enjoys a little adventure. Whether you are hoping to see the Northern Lights in Lapland or simply want to experience the magic of the Arctic winter, this is a truly memorable way to do it.

If you would like to hear more about joining the trip, do get in touch. Lapland has a habit of capturing your heart and I cannot wait to return. ✨