Golden bays, granite peaks and Sardinian soul: my week in Northern Sardinia
When I was offered to join an escorted tour to Northern Sardinia, staying in the pretty village of San Pantaleo, I jumped at the chance. Not having been to Sardinia since the early 90s, over eight days I re-discovered emerald bays, medieval towns, island hopping by boat and the quiet charm of traditional Sardinian life. Here is how the week unfolded, day by day.
Day 1: Arrival in Sardinia and first glimpse of San Pantaleo
An easy flight from London Gatwick brought us into Olbia in the late afternoon, with the sun still warm and bright as we stepped off the plane. From there it was a scenic drive to our base for the week: Hotel Rocce Sarde, tucked into the hills above the characterful village of San Pantaleo.

The setting immediately set the tone for the trip. The hotel is surrounded by rugged granite rocks and fragrant Mediterranean scrub, with views that stretch out towards the coastline. After checking in, there was time to settle into our rooms, breathe in that first lungful of warm Sardinian air and get our bearings.
As evening fell, we gathered for dinner at the hotel. Over a relaxed meal and a glass (or two) of local wine, we started to get to know our fellow travellers and our guide. It felt like the perfect soft landing: no rush, just a gentle introduction to Sardinia and the rhythm of the week ahead, before turning in for our first night in the hills.
Day 2: Costa Smeralda and Porto Cervo’s polished glamour
After breakfast at the hotel, we set off to explore one of Sardinia’s most famous stretches of coastline: the Costa Smeralda, or Emerald Coast. The name really does fit. As the coach wound its way along the coast, we were treated to glimpses of water in every shade of turquoise and jade, tiny coves with white sand and clusters of sleek villas tucked into the rocks.
Our main stop was Porto Cervo, the Costa Smeralda’s most glamorous resort town. The marina is lined with gleaming yachts and beautifully designed waterfront buildings, yet it still feels intimate enough to wander at a leisurely pace. We had time to stroll along the harbour, browse the chic boutiques and simply people‑watch.
One of the real highlights was the Stella Maris church, a striking white building perched above the town. Inside, it shelters an unexpected collection of art, but it was the setting that really captured me. From the church’s hilltop position, you look back down over Porto Cervo and the marina, taking in that perfect combination of sea, sky and sculpted architecture. It was easy to see why the rich and famous return here year after year, yet visiting as part of a small group kept it all pleasantly accessible.
We returned to Rocce Sarde in time to relax before dinner. The contrast between the polished luxury of the Costa Smeralda and the relaxed, rustic charm of our hillside hotel felt like one of the strengths of the trip: you get to dip into the glamour, then retreat somewhere peaceful at the end of the day.
Day 3: Medieval Alghero and a Sardinian wine tasting
The next morning we crossed the island to Sardinia’s north‑west coast and the atmospheric city of Alghero. The journey itself was part of the experience, revealing just how varied the island’s landscapes are: rolling hills, rugged peaks and flashes of sea in the distance.
In Alghero we were met by a local guide for a walking tour of the Old Town. Cobbled streets thread between warm, honey‑coloured buildings, with traces of the city’s Catalan heritage in the architecture and street names. We explored the Gothic Santa Maria Cathedral and the church of San Francesco, both quiet, cool spaces that offer a moment of calm away from the bustle of the streets outside.

We then followed the line of the 16th‑century sea walls, towers and ramparts. From here, the views stretch out towards the dramatic Capo Caccia cliffs, rising from the sea in the distance. It is a wonderful place to linger, watching the waves break against the rocks and imagining the centuries of sailors and traders who have passed this way.
After some free time to wander, we rejoined the coach and headed into the countryside for a wine tasting. This was a real treat: the chance to sample local Sardinian wines and pair them with regional specialities. Surrounded by vines, we tasted our way through a selection of reds and whites while learning about the island’s winemaking traditions. Platters of typical Sardinian products completed the experience, turning it into a relaxed, late‑lunchtime feast rather than a formal tasting. It offered a delicious insight into Sardinia’s flavours and agricultural heritage.
We returned to the hotel well satisfied, with another convivial dinner and overnight stay at Rocce Sarde.
Day 4: Palau, Capo d’Orso and coastal vistas
Day four took us towards the north‑eastern tip of Sardinia. After breakfast, we travelled to the coastal town of Palau, our jumping‑off point for a panoramic walk around Capo d’Orso.

Capo d’Orso is famous for its distinctive rock formations, carved by wind and sea over centuries, and the walk offers a succession of viewpoints over the islands scattered just offshore. The combination of granite rocks, wild scrub and glittering sea feels very different from the manicured Costa Smeralda, yet equally beautiful.
We also visited Hotel Palau during this excursion, which gave us another perspective on the region’s accommodation options: a more coastal, resort‑style setting compared with the rural charm of Rocce Sarde. It was interesting to imagine how different types of travellers might enjoy each.
The afternoon offered time to soak up the coastal air before we returned to San Pantaleo. Once again, dinner was served at the hotel, giving us a chance to share impressions of the day and compare photographs of those dramatic seascapes.
Day 5: Olbia’s Old Town, Corso Umberto and a traditional Sardinian lunch
Mid‑week, our focus shifted back towards Olbia, the main gateway to this part of the island. Although many visitors only pass through the airport and ferry port, the city itself has a compact Old Town that is well worth exploring.
We joined a guided walking tour through its elegant streets, visiting the medieval Church of San Simplicio with its simple granite façade. There is a quiet dignity to this church that reflects Sardinia’s understated character: not overly ornate, but steeped in history.
From there, we made our way towards Corso Umberto, Olbia’s main shopping street. This was the place to pick up souvenirs: small independent boutiques, local crafts and upmarket shops sit side by side. For those who preferred to simply relax, Piazza Margherita offered the perfect alternative. With its cafes and outdoor seating, it was easy to order a coffee or a spritz and enjoy a spot of people‑watching.

A real highlight of the day was our included lunch in a traditional locanda. This was our chance to experience a “proper” Sardinian meal, with typical dishes served in a warm, authentic setting. Long tables, generous portions and local hospitality combined to create one of the most memorable meals of the week.
After returning to Rocce Sarde, we had the usual evening routine: time to unwind, followed by dinner and an overnight stay at the hotel.
Day 6: Island‑hopping to La Maddalena
If there was one day that captured the essence of Northern Sardinia’s coastline, it was our boat trip to La Maddalena.
An early bus transfer took us to the port, where we boarded our boat for the cruise from Cannigione to the island of La Maddalena. From the moment we set off, the scenery stole the show. The boat threaded its way through a scatter of islands and islets, past bays that looked almost unreal in their shades of turquoise and blue.

Throughout the day we stopped to visit some of these islands, including La Maddalena itself. There was time to stroll through the town and to simply enjoy the views from the harbour, where pastel‑coloured buildings face onto the water.
At various points we had the opportunity to swim. For those who braved the water, the reward was a dip in remarkably clear sea, with the boat bobbing gently nearby. Even for those who preferred to stay on deck, it was a wonderfully relaxing way to experience the coastline: sea breeze, sunshine and ever‑changing views.

A light lunch was served on board, allowing us to stay out on the water without having to think about logistics. In the afternoon we retraced our route back towards Cannigione and then returned by bus to the hotel. It was one of those days that feels like a holiday within a holiday.
Day 7: Free day, Arzachena’s painted steps and lunch by the sea
Our final full day was intentionally left free, and it proved to be the perfect way to round off the trip. With breakfast, lunch and dinner all included, the decision was simply how active (or inactive) to be.
A few of us decided to make the most of the day by hiring a car and heading out to explore under our own steam. The drive itself was a pleasure, taking us through rolling countryside to the town of Arzachena. Here we discovered the most wonderful surprise: a flight of brightly painted steps, each riser decorated in vivid colours and patterns. Climbing them felt like walking up through a piece of contemporary art, with views opening out over the town as we paused to catch our breath and admire the details.

From Arzachena we continued to the coast for lunch at the fabulous Gabbiano Azzurro Hotel & Suites. Sitting by the water with a leisurely meal, we enjoyed that effortless mix of good food, sea views and gentle Sardinian hospitality. It felt like a real treat and a suitably indulgent way to toast the end of the week.
Back at the hotel, others in the group chose to spend the day enjoying the facilities at Rocce Sarde: relaxing by the pool, savouring a cooling drink on the terrace or fitting in a game of tennis. Some headed for a nearby beach, keen to savour one last swim and stretch of golden sand, while others stayed closer to home in San Pantaleo, browsing the artisan shops and soaking up the village atmosphere.
It was a gentle, reflective day that gave us space to absorb everything we had seen during the week and to enjoy the hotel’s hospitality one last time.
Day 8: Farewell to Sardinia
On our final morning we enjoyed a last breakfast at Rocce Sarde, taking in the views and the now‑familiar surroundings. Later, we transferred back to Olbia Airport for our afternoon flight to London Gatwick.
As we left, I was struck by how varied Northern Sardinia had proved to be in just one week. From the polished marinas and designer boutiques of the Costa Smeralda to the medieval streets of Alghero, from island‑hopping in La Maddalena’s clear waters to quiet moments in San Pantaleo, the itinerary stitched together many different sides of the island.
What made it particularly rewarding was the balance: structured excursions with knowledgeable guides, carefully chosen tastings and lunches, and enough free time to relax and follow our own pace. It was the kind of trip that leaves you with both standout “wow” moments and a more subtle appreciation of local life, culture and landscape.
For anyone considering a first visit to Sardinia, or looking to explore the island beyond a single beach resort, a week based in the north‑east with days out to Alghero, Olbia and La Maddalena offers a wonderfully rounded introduction. You will return with a camera full of turquoise bays and sunset‑lit rock formations, but also with memories of village squares, family‑run restaurants and the warm, unhurried hospitality that defines Sardinia at its best.
If you would like to shape a similar itinerary around your own interests, dates and pace, I can help tailor a Northern Sardinia journey that feels just as effortless, but completely personal to you.