Koutammakou: land of the Batammariba

We started on the borderlands, in Koutammakou Village, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that straddles northern Togo and Benin. This is the land of the Batammariba people, famed for their traditional mud tower houses known as takienta.

These photogenic structures are not museum pieces, they are fully functional homes with a very deliberate design:

• Animals sleep on the lower floor, alongside the men who guard them.
• Skulls of deceased relatives are kept here too, honouring ancestors and maintaining a spiritual connection.
• Middle levels are used for storage.
• The rooftop level is where the wives sleep in small domed caves, under the stars.

The village is strategically perched high on a hill for protection, with sacred rocks, ceremonial spaces and initiation areas woven into the landscape. A giant baobab marks where the village founder first settled after travelling south, its hollow interior once blocked with rocks at night to keep wild animals at bay. It feels ancient, resilient and very much alive.

Taneka Beri: healers, scarification and a fading way of life

From there we continued to Taneka Beri, a village in northwestern Benin not far from the Togo border. The population here has dwindled to around 300 permanent residents, as many tribe members move away and return only for key ceremonies. Those who remain work the surrounding fields, farming the land much as their ancestors did.

Taneka Beri is a place of layered traditions:

• We were fortunate to meet the village healer, a revered figure who lives almost entirely unclothed, wearing only an animal skin sheath and smoking a long pipe.
• Communication was a challenge, as the villagers speak their own dialect and even our French-speaking guide could not fully translate.
• The healer is central to village life, consulted on illness and disputes.

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The village itself is an atmospheric mix of huts, altars and granaries, grouped in clusters of ten or twelve around shared spaces. One of the most striking customs still practised here is scarification. Young boys have patterns carved into their faces with rocks or knives and must prove their bravery by not crying or making a sound. It is confronting to witness, but also an important marker of identity and passage into manhood for the community.

Dankoli Shrine: voodoo wishes and raw sacrifice

In Savalou we visited the Dankoli Shrine, the most active voodoo pilgrimage site in Benin. If you come to this country intrigued by voodoo, this is where it becomes very real. Voudon practitioners travel long distances to Dankoli to make wishes about pivotal life moments:

• A job promotion
• Meeting a future spouse
• Health, prosperity or protection

The ritual is powerful and very physical:

1. A wooden stake is hammered into the shrine while the wish is spoken aloud.
2. Alcohol is poured onto the ground as an offering.
3. If the wish is granted, the person returns later with an animal sacrifice.

The yellow smeared across the flags and surfaces is a mix of animal blood and palm oil. Ropes mark where animals were once tethered, and a machete and stone lie nearby where they were butchered after sacrifice. It is graphic, unapologetic and not for the faint-hearted. I was quietly grateful that during our visit we witnessed only wish-making, not the sacrifices themselves.

A lakeside pause: lunch at Motel du Lac

After the intensity of Dankoli, Motel du Lac provided a very welcome change of pace. Set beside a tranquil lake, it was the perfect spot to exhale and refuel.

The food here is a real highlight:

• A French-trained chef ensures thoughtful, beautifully prepared dishes.
• Portions were generous and delicious.
• My stand-out favourites were a rich mushroom and cheese quiche and indulgent pineapple fritters.

Sometimes on a busy cultural itinerary, a relaxed lunch with a view is exactly what you need.

The Jeco Hotel, Dassa: comfort with quirks

That night we stayed at the Jeco Hotel in Dassa. First impressions were promising:

• A nicely furnished reception with comfy chairs and a bar.
• A decent restaurant with pretty good food.
• An elevator (always a win with luggage).

The room itself was large, but like so many beds on this trip, rock hard. Things then got a little more “characterful”:

• The bathroom door could not open fully, so someone had carved away part of it.
• The vanity shelf had been installed directly above the tap, making it almost impossible to turn on.
• The WiFi was not working, but the Winter Olympics were on TV, so there was at least some evening entertainment.

If you like your travels polished and predictable, Dassa may test you. If you enjoy stories to tell later, you will be in luck.

Agongointo Underground Village: war holes and hidden resistance

One of the most fascinating historic sites we visited was Agongointo Underground Village, which dates back to the 17th century but was only rediscovered by the Dutch in 1998. Beneath the surface lies a network of 52 underground bunkers, around 10 metres deep, with small openings that could be camouflaged with leaves and branches. These “war holes”, as they are known in the Fon language, served as:

• Hiding places for guerilla fighters evading their enemies.
• Secret bases from which to launch surprise attacks.
• Underground living quarters, with each bunker housing up to 10 people in basic “bedroom” and “living” spaces.

Even today, the area retains strong spiritual significance. Two voodoo shrines on the site are still in use, a reminder that for many here, the past and present are closely intertwined.

UNESCO recognised Gelede Mask Dance

In Benin we were privileged to watch a performance of the Gelede Mask Dance, a masquerade tradition of the Yoruba people and recognised by UNESCO. Originating in Benin and Nigeria, the dance honours ancestral spirits and the spiritual power of elderly women, referred to as “our mothers”.

During the performance:

• Men dress in women’s clothing and wear elaborate carved masks.
• Headpieces carry powerful messages, addressing topics such as fertility (often encouraging families to limit themselves to two children), HIV protection and the use of mosquito nets.
• Dancers wear ankle bells and many carry cow tails to accentuate their movements and storytelling.

The result is joyful, meaningful and visually spectacular, with the performers interacting playfully with the audience while conveying serious social messages.

Royal Palaces of Abomey: heart of the Fon empire

No visit to Benin would be complete without exploring Abomey, home to the Royal Palaces of the Dahomey kings. These palaces, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are undergoing extensive restoration, with 4 of the 12 palaces currently being renovated and a new visitor centre under construction. The first palace was built in 1625 and the final one completed in 1900. Together they formed:

• The formal royal residences of the Dahomey kings.
• The political and spiritual epicentre of the powerful Fon empire.

We also visited one king’s personal palace, wandering through multiple courtyards to appreciate the sheer scale of the complex. Today, the current king of Benin still lives in Abomey, albeit in a ceremonial role rather than a ruling one, maintaining a thread of continuity with the past.

Place Goho: honouring the “Shark King”

In a small park in Abomey, Place Goho, stands an imposing 20 metre statue of King Béhanzin, the 11th and final independent King of Dahomey (1845–1906). Nicknamed the “Shark King” for his defence of the coastline, he is best known for his fierce resistance to French colonialism and is celebrated as a national hero. The statue captures both his strength and his legacy, towering above the trees as a reminder of a kingdom that refused to submit quietly.

Hotel Tennessee: tribal charm and gecko roommates

From royal palaces we moved to something far more playful: my room at the Hotel Tennessee, which was inspired by a traditional tribal hut. The circular room was huge and genuinely fun to stay in, especially with two geckos who decided to move in as unofficial roommates. Features included:

• A massive bathroom with a powerful shower.
• Limited TV stations, but a great African music channel that provided a brilliant soundtrack to the evening.
• WiFi that, true to regional form, did not really work.
• Well tended gardens and a lovely swimming pool.
• Tasty food, offset slightly by rather surly service.

It felt quirky, characterful and completely in keeping with the offbeat charm of the trip.

A voodoo priest’s compound: panthers and symbolism

Another unforgettable moment was visiting the compound of a voodoo priest. As non-practitioners we were not allowed inside, except to step through the enormous panther-shaped entrance. Instead, we spent around 30 minutes outside, absorbing the incredible sculptures adorning the exterior walls and listening to their meanings. The exit was almost as ornate as the entrance, flanked by golden panthers and a huge decorative gate.

 Even from the outside, you could sense that this was a sacred, powerful space, full of symbolism and stories that outsiders can only partially grasp.

The Chameleon Temple: obsessed is not an exaggeration

One site that stole my heart completely was the Chameleon Temple in Abomey, considered the spiritual heart of the ancient Dahomey kingdom. At around 10 metres high and built in concrete, it is impossible to miss.

The chameleon here symbolises:

• The “spirit of life”
• Transformation and adaptability

The temple is still in active use: every Sunday, Voudon practitioners enter through the giant open mouth at the front, while visitors enter discreetly from the side. Inside, it is relatively simple:

• Rows of wooden benches
• Carvings on the supporting pillars
• An altar and a lion throne

Despite its simplicity, the energy of the place is compelling. I am, quite honestly, a little obsessed with it.

Art, history and a very good lunch: the Zinsou Foundation & Maison du Brésil

Back towards the coast, we visited the Zinsou Foundation, which showcases contemporary African art, with a strong focus on Beninese artists.

Highlights:

• A beautifully restored building that feels like a work of art in itself.
• A fantastic ground-floor restaurant serving delicious traditional dishes. The stand-out: cheese in satay sauce that was absolutely to die for.
• A guided tour that gave real insight into what inspired each piece and how modern African artists are interpreting their world.

We also stopped at Maison du Brésil, another important landmark in Ouidah that sheds light on Afro-Brazilian history and the legacy of slavery. Photography is not allowed inside, which makes the experience feel more intimate and reflective. The exterior alone hints at the stories contained within.

Casa del Papa: saving the best hotel for last

My final hotel in Benin was Casa del Papa and they really did save the best for last.

Set on a sweeping stretch of beach that seems to go on forever, the property felt like a well-earned reward at the end of an intense and emotional journey.

Casa del Papa features:

• Charming yellow semi-detached bungalows, each with a private terrace.
• Large four-poster beds and spacious, spotless bathrooms with excellent showers.
• Gorgeous sea views and a setting that invites long, lazy walks on the sand.
• Strong WiFi in the main reception and bar areas (although not in the rooms).
• An extensive menu and consistently very good food.

It was the perfect place to rest, reflect and listen to the Atlantic roll in.

Ouidah Beach: beauty, shells and five-hour fishing

Ouidah’s beach is breathtaking: wide swathes of golden sand stretch for miles in every direction, soft underfoot and scattered with pretty shells.

While wandering along the shoreline, we had the chance to help local fishermen bring in their catch. Their method is both simple and epic in scale:

• A gigantic net, stretching for what must be a quarter of a mile, is set in the water.
• Two teams work from opposite ends, slowly hauling it in.
• A runner moves between the teams to keep everyone coordinated.
• The entire process takes over five hours from start to finish.

It is exhausting, communal work and a vivid window into daily coastal life.

KouKou Dance: trance, courage and yellow power

One of the most remarkable performances we witnessed was the KouKou Dance, which originates from the Ivory Coast but is performed in this region too. Traditionally, it was used to welcome women home after a successful day of fishing.

In this ritual:

• Selected members of the tribe enter a trance, said to be taken over by spirits from the past.
• Once under the spirits’ influence, they go to the temple and emerge transformed: wearing grass skirts and carrying coconut shells.
• The shells are filled with a bright yellow mixture of cornflour, palm oil and water. The dancers pour it over their heads and bodies to draw power and energy, then pour the excess over a voodoo shrine.
• In the most intense moments, the dancers take knives and begin to slash at their bodies. You can see real cuts being made.

It is raw, visceral and unlike anything I have seen elsewhere. Watching the dancers gradually return to themselves as the spirits “depart” is both a relief and a privilege.

Ouidah and the “Door of No Return”

Ouidah was a major hub of the transatlantic slave trade in the 17th and 18th centuries. Over a million people were taken from here across the Atlantic.

The process was brutally systematic:

• Slaves were held in darkness in large concrete warehouses.
• They were then traded at the slave market.
• From there they were marched roughly a mile along a route to the shore, where ships waited offshore.

Today, the “Door of No Return” has been rebuilt (in January 2026) to honour all those whose lives were stolen or irrevocably scarred. A replica slave ship is being constructed to further illustrate the horror of that journey. To one side of the monument lies the arena where the annual Voudon Festival takes place every January, a poignant juxtaposition of ongoing cultural life beside a place of deep pain.

Ganvie Stilt Village: the “Venice of Africa”

From Ouidah we travelled towards Cotonou and then on to Ganvie, a stilt village on Lake Nakoué often called the “Venice of Africa”. Around 25,000 to 45,000 people live here, making it the largest floating village in the world. Ganvie was founded in the 17th century by the Tofinu people seeking refuge from European slave traders. The shallow waters offered protection, and over time a full community took shape:

• Homes, schools, markets, churches and community centres all rest on stilts.
• A few basic hotels even allow visitors to stay the night above the water.
• Some areas of land have been reclaimed, creating pockets of solid ground.

Children have their own small boats and learn to paddle almost as soon as they can walk. Most residents still earn a living from fishing, gliding across the lake in wooden pirogues that feel like a natural extension of their bodies.

Zangbeto: voodoo night watchmen

Another extraordinary voodoo tradition we were lucky to witness was a Zangbeto performance. Zangbeto are often described as the “night watchmen” of the community, a sort of spiritual equivalent of the Western bogeyman, used to warn people against going out at night with bad intentions.

During the performance:

• The Zangbeto spirits are represented by tall, conical straw costumes in bright colours.
• Each spirit has a handler, essential because they spin at high speed and whirl right into onlookers.
• At certain moments, the spirits “rise up” and then collapse dramatically to the ground.

We were convinced there must be people hidden inside, but at one point the costumes were opened up fully and revealed to be empty. Sometimes, when opened, they contained small offerings like sweets, which the children eagerly shared. The whole spectacle was weird, wonderful and just a little bit spooky.

The Amazon statue in Cotonou: power in bronze

In Cotonou, a 30 metre bronze statue known as the Amazon commands attention. Unveiled in July 2022 and created by Chinese sculptor Li Xiangqun, it pays tribute to the Dahomey Amazons, an all-female military regiment that served the Dahomey kings between the 17th and 19th centuries.

These women were renowned for their courage, discipline and strength. Seeing their legacy immortalised in such an imposing form feels both overdue and incredibly powerful.

Dantokpa Market: sensory overload

No exploration of Cotonou is complete without venturing into Dantokpa Market, the largest open-air market in West Africa. Covering over 20 hectares, it sits along the lagoon and has been an economic powerhouse since its founding in 1968.

Here you can buy absolutely anything:

• Clothes, fabrics and shoes
• Tyres, electronics and household items
• Fresh food of every kind
• A “fetish” section selling items for Voudon practitioners

The market is a labyrinth of tightly packed stalls with corrugated iron roofs, overcrowded walkways and a relentless soundtrack of shouting, bargaining and honking. Under the blazing sun it is intense and exhausting. We lasted about 45 minutes before deciding that was quite enough sensory overload for one day.

Africa’s longest graffiti wall: colour, culture and creativity

Balancing out the chaos of the market is one of Cotonou’s most striking modern attractions: the longest graffiti wall in Africa. Stretching for almost 2 km along the port walls, this stunning mural is:

• A collaboration between local artists and Brazilian artist Eduardo Kobra.
• A vibrant blend of daily life scenes, historical references and modern Beninese culture.
• A living artwork that continues to grow as new sections are added.

It is the kind of place you can wander for ages, discovering fresh details, hidden faces and unexpected colour combinations with every few steps.

Benin: weird, wonderful and utterly unforgettable

When I first crossed the border into Benin, I knew it was famed for voodoo and had a rich, if heavy, history. What I did not expect was to fall so completely for its people, its creativity and the sheer variety of experiences it offers.

Benin gave me:

• UNESCO sites, royal palaces and underground villages.
• Vivid voodoo traditions, from Zangbeto night watchmen to Gelede masks and KouKou trances.
• Profound reflections on the slave trade in Ouidah and proud reminders of resistance in Abomey.
• Floating villages, golden beaches and that unforgettable Amazon statue.
• Warm welcomes, shy smiles, curious children and hosts eager to share their country’s stories.

Benin truly blew me away. I had not really known what to expect, but the warmth of its people, its colourful and unique traditions and the sheer range of fascinating places to experience had me completely hooked.

If you crave something deeper than a standard beach break, and want a holiday to challenge, educate and inspire in equal measure, Benin is a destination that will stay with you long after you return home.