Back in 1994, I was a holiday rep in Naxos.

I was often put on islands where there was a Ferry or Flying Dolphin connection which meant early starts , choppy ferries and chaos the other side as I assisted my customers off the boats to coaches before the ferry pulled out to its next destination

Long hot days, handwritten manifests, creaky ferries and evenings spent wandering cobbled lanes lit by soft taverna lights. Naxos felt a world apart from the more polished, exclusive Cycladic islands even then, and in many ways it still does. That is exactly why I was so excited to go back.

Getting there: Creaky Ferries to sleek SeaJets

In the 1990s, island-hopping meant squeezing onto the old  ferries and hoping for a decent seat and calm seas. This time, I travelled from Mykonos to Naxos on the SeaJet, and the difference could not have been greater.

The crossing took around 45 minutes ( sure it took over 2 hours before) , with allocated seat numbers and a much smarter, more modern feel than anything I used to sail on in my rep days. The boats are bigger, smarter and vastly more comfortable than the ferries of the 90s, and the price reflects that too: a return was over 100 euros per person. It is a far cry from the basic, slightly chaotic journeys I remember, but it certainly makes island-hopping feel like part of the holiday rather than a necessary chore. Backpackers now have suitcases 

First impressions: familiar, but grown up

Arriving into Naxos harbour was a wave of nostalgia. The famous Portara, the ancient marble doorway standing proudly on its little islet, still greets you as you sail in. It is one of those sights that instantly tells you that you are in Naxos and nowhere else.

Yet the island has grown up. While it still feels more grounded and less ostentatious than some of its Cycladic neighbours, there is a clear sense of refinement. Cafés and tavernas spill onto the waterfront( it had been extended out) , boats bob gently in the harbour and there is a laid-back, confident atmosphere that feels both authentic and contemporary.

Eating on the harbour: my best meal of the holiday

Greek food was one of the great joys of my time here in the 1990s and it still is today. On this visit, the standout meal of the entire holiday was at Meze, a restaurant right on the seafront.

I tucked into crisp, golden calamari, a simple but perfect Greek salad and the island’s famous Naxos soft cheese. The flavours were fresh and honest, the kind of food that reminds you why Greek cuisine has such a loyal following. Sitting there looking out to sea, it felt like everything I loved about Greece wrapped into one meal: warmth, generosity and a deep connection to the land and sea.. The food in Naxos is mostly locally produced not imported in 

Wandering the old town: a labyrinth of memories with tall venetian doorways.

Just behind the harbour, Naxos old town rises in a charming labyrinth of narrow streets. Climbing through the back lanes felt like stepping into my own memories: whitewashed walls, colourful doors, tiny chapels and unexpected views down to the water. Built  for you to get lost initially to divert pirates as in the 15th Century it was an important wealthy trading site

The jewellery shops caught my eye in particular, many of them selling pieces featuring the “eye of Naxos” – a sea snail whose natural spiral takes the form of the famous protective evil eye. It is a lovely reminder of the island’s link with the sea and its long traditions, and a beautiful little keepsake to bring home.

St George’s Beach: still delightfully uncommercial and hard to find 

One of the most pleasant surprises was St George’s Beach, right by the town. In an age when so many beaches have been claimed by rows of sunbeds, loud music and beach clubs, St George’s still feels refreshingly relaxed and uncommercial.

There is soft sand, clear water and a gentle, easy-going feel that makes it perfect for a slow swim or a lazy afternoon. It is the sort of place where you can still turn up with a towel, a book and a relaxed attitude, and feel absolutely at home.

How long do you need in Naxos?

This time, I only had a few hours on the island. It was just enough to rekindle old memories and get a taste of how Naxos has evolved, but it left me wanting more. To do it justice, you really do need a few days: time to explore the mountain villages, discover quieter beaches, visit historic sites and simply sit in a café watching everyday island life unfold.

Even in a short visit, though, I was reminded why Naxos stayed with me so strongly after those rep days. It may not be as showy or exclusive as some of its Cycladic neighbours, but it has a depth of character, history and authenticity that is incredibly appealing. It felt like coming home to an old friend who has grown and changed, yet is still unmistakably themselves.

For anyone considering a Greek island escape with a little more substance, a lot of charm and excellent food, Naxos is well worth putting on the list. And if, like me, you knew it in a different era, going back is a wonderfully nostalgic way to see just how far both you and the island have come.

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