Asia Part 2: Kerala – Fort Kochi, Spice Hills, Backwaters & Beach

In March 2026, after the colour and chaos of Mumbai, we flew south to Kerala for the second half of our India adventure. If you are planning a first trip to India, or you have only experienced the forts and cities of the north, a Mumbai and Kerala holiday is a wonderful combination: big‑city buzz followed by calm waterways, palm‑fringed beaches and a much gentler pace.

Kerala calls itself “God’s Own Country”, and as soon as you arrive you can see why. Coconut palms, bright green rice paddies and a softer rhythm to daily life make it feel very different to Mumbai or Delhi.

Fort Kochi: character, culture and incredible food

After a short flight from Mumbai we arrived in Kerala and checked into Eight Bastion in Fort Kochi. This small, characterful hotel was the perfect base for the start of our Kerala holiday, and we had arguably the best meal of our entire trip there. The food was fresh, beautifully presented and full of classic Keralan flavours: coconut, curry leaves and delicate spice.

Exploring Fort Kochi with a private guide

The next day we set off on a private guided tour of Fort Kochi. For first‑time visitors to India, or for anyone who has only experienced the north, this gentle, walkable area is a lovely way to ease into Kerala.

We visited the historic churches and learned about the layers of Portuguese, Dutch and British influence that have shaped Kochi over the centuries. Our guide brought the stories to life, pointing out small details we would easily have missed on our own.

A real highlight was seeing the famous Chinese fishing nets in action along the waterfront. These huge, cantilevered nets are such an iconic image of Kerala, and watching the fishermen work them at close quarters felt like stepping into a postcard.

Jew Town, spices and Indian cotton

From the waterfront we continued into Jew Town, one of the most atmospheric parts of Fort Kochi. We visited the synagogue and learned more about the history of the Jewish community in Kerala, then had the chance to see how essential oils and perfumes are made and used. It was fascinating to smell the raw ingredients and understand how they are blended.

Jew Town is also a wonderful place to shop. I could not resist browsing for soft Indian cotton in the little boutiques and fabric shops, as well as peeking into antique stores and handicraft stalls. It is very easy to spend a happy hour or two here, and I now have some favourite spots I can recommend for clients who enjoy textiles and authentic souvenirs.

Cookery class & hotel visits in Fort Kochi

After a quick swim back at Eight Bastion, we headed out again for an evening cookery class in a local homestay. This was such a memorable experience and something I would really encourage for anyone on a Kerala holiday.

Under the guidance of our host we prepared a wonderful three‑course meal, learning step by step how to balance spices and use everyday ingredients to create traditional Keralan dishes. Cooking in a local kitchen, rather than a glossy hotel demo, gave us a real feel for home cooking in this part of India, and of course the best part was sitting down together to enjoy what we had made.

We still found time for a little more shopping in Fort Kochi and I also took the opportunity to visit a couple of lovely hotels in the area. Having seen them first‑hand, I can now confidently suggest the right Fort Kochi boutique stays for my guests, whether they are couples looking for charm and character or families wanting a relaxed base before or after the Kerala backwaters.

Into the hills: Spice Village and Kerala’s spice country

Next stop after Fort Kochi was the hills, reached by a stunning drive with our private driver. As the road wound higher, the air cooled, the landscape turned a rich, velvety green and we swapped palm‑fringed coastlines for tea and spice plantations. For anyone who has only experienced north India, Kerala’s hill country feels like a completely different world.

We stayed at Spice Village, a beautiful eco‑style retreat that feels more like a village than a hotel, with thatched bungalows set among trees and gardens. En route I stopped for an Ayurvedic massage which was exactly what I needed after the journey: deeply relaxing and a lovely way to ease into Kerala’s slower pace.

That evening we simply enjoyed our bungalow and a relaxed dinner, listening to the sounds of the hills instead of city traffic.

Kerala spice plantation tour

The next morning we headed off to a local spice farm to learn more about the ingredients that have made Kerala famous for centuries. On this Kerala spice plantation tour we walked among pepper vines, cardamom bushes, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg, seeing how everything is grown, harvested and processed.

It was fascinating to connect the jars in our kitchens at home with the plants in front of us, and we could not resist buying some spices to experiment with when we got back. For a first‑time India itinerary, this is such a gentle, sensory way to understand Kerala’s role in the old spice routes.

After a couple of nights at Spice Village, with cool evenings, birdsong and log fires, it was time to head back down towards the water.

Kumarakom Lake Resort & a private Kerala houseboat

From the hills we drove to Kumarakom Lake Resort, which sits on the edge of Vembanad Lake in the heart of the Kerala backwaters. It was absolutely stunning: traditional architecture, winding pools and serene views over the water. We had some time simply to enjoy the resort, wander the grounds and start to feel that “backwaters calm” take over.

The real highlight, though, was our 24 hours on the resort’s own Kerala houseboat. This was, without doubt, the standout experience of the entire Mumbai and Kerala holiday.

Once on board, everything slowed down. There was no Wi‑Fi, no distractions, just first‑class food, beautiful scenery, our private crew and complete peace. We watched village life unfold along the banks, waved at children on the towpaths, saw fishermen heading out in small boats and drifted past rice paddies and coconut groves as the light changed through the day.

In the evening we anchored in a quiet stretch of water, ate a delicious Keralan dinner on deck and fell asleep to the sound of water lapping gently against the hull. For first‑time visitors to India, or for anyone used only to the noise of Delhi or Jaipur, this kind of backwaters experience is pure magic.

If you prefer not to sleep on a boat, there are also beautiful backwater resorts and homestays on the banks, where you can take shorter boat trips and retreat to a pool and comfortable room at the end of the day. I can help you choose the right option, depending on whether you are a couple, a group of friends or travelling as a family.

Marari Beach: easing back to reality

Our final destination in Kerala was Marari Beach Resort, the perfect place to unwind before flying home. Set beside a long, uncrowded stretch of sand, it has a wonderfully laid‑back feel: palm trees, hammocks, a lovely pool and that soft roar of the Arabian Sea in the background.

We used our time here simply to relax: walks on the beach, swims in the sea, reading by the pool and enjoying fresh seafood. It was exactly what we needed after such a rich, full itinerary, and a reminder that an India holiday can include real rest as well as adventure and culture.

For anyone considering a first trip to India, or for those who have only experienced the north, finishing a Mumbai and Kerala itinerary with a few days at Marari Beach or a similar Kerala beach resort is a wonderful way to let everything sink in.

Why Kerala pairs so well with Mumbai for first‑time visitors

Looking back, I would say that combining Mumbai and Kerala in March 2026 gave us one of the most balanced India itineraries we have ever done.

For first‑time visitors to India, or for those who have only explored the north, it offers:

• A vibrant introduction to modern India in Mumbai: the Taj Mahal Palace, Gateway of India, dabbawalas, dawn markets and Dharavi with a local guide
• The softer, greener side of India in Kerala: Fort Kochi’s heritage streets, calm backwaters, tea‑covered hills and relaxed beaches
• A mix of guided insight and time to simply be, which is so important in a country as rich and intense as India

If you are curious about India but unsure where to start, or if you have already “done” the Taj Mahal and Rajasthan and want to see something very different, a Mumbai and Kerala holiday could be ideal.

I would love to share more about the specific Fort Kochi hotels, Hill Country retreats, Kumarakom backwater resorts, Kerala houseboats and Marari Beach hotels that I have experienced first‑hand, and help you shape an India itinerary that feels exciting but not overwhelming, rich in culture but with plenty of time to breathe.