Calgary to Banff: The Rockies Reveal Themselves

We flew into Calgary and, after a remarkably smooth arrival, picked up our hire car for the easy 1.5‑hour drive to Banff. Within about 30 minutes of leaving the airport, the scenery started to unfold: prairie gave way to rolling foothills, then suddenly the Canadian Rockies rose up in front of us. Even the kids went quiet as the mountains appeared, which tells you everything.

Banff itself is a delightful, compact mountain town, framed on all sides by dramatic peaks. The children loved that the streets are named after local wildlife: Elk Street, Wolf Street and so on. It feels friendly and walkable, with plenty of cafés and shops, yet you are always just minutes from pure wilderness.

We set ourselves a “wildlife spotting challenge” on day one. By bedtime our tally already included one baby coyote hiding in the grass at the roadside and one majestic elk grazing unconcerned by the passing cars. Not a bad start.

Our first walk was around Lake Minnewanka, a beautiful glacial lake just outside Banff. It felt wonderfully remote, despite being so close to town. The many signs warning you to “watch out for bears” and to carry bear spray certainly sharpen the senses; we were more than a little jumpy at every rustle in the trees. Thankfully, no bears appeared, just big skies, fresh mountain air, and that lovely sense of being very small in a very big landscape.

In the afternoon we took the cable car up Sulphur Mountain. The weather was incredibly changeable: one moment we had sweeping views over Banff and the Bow Valley, the next the mountains disappeared completely into cloud. Up at the top, the real stars of the show were the resident chipmunks, who seemed to have perfected the art of looking adorable for photos. 

Lake Louise & Johnston Canyon: Turquoise Lakes and Waterfalls

The following day we headed to the iconic Lake Louise. Top tip from us: unless you plan to arrive at about 4 a.m., do not expect to get a space in the main car park in peak season. It is incredibly busy. Instead, we parked at the Lake Louise Gondola and took the shuttle bus, which worked brilliantly and saved a lot of stress. When we finally reached the lake, the view genuinely took our breath away: that famous milky‑turquoise water, backed by glaciers and towering peaks. The sun obligingly made an appearance and the colours were just unreal. We set off on the hike up to Lake Agnes for lunch. It is a good family challenge: long enough to feel like an achievement, but not so hard that anyone complained. In fact, everyone enjoyed it and, miraculously, nobody moaned. The reward at the top is another picture‑perfect alpine lake and a charming mountain‑side tea house that feels like something from a storybook.

On the way back, we all eyed up the beautiful Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise sitting right on the shoreline. It looks every inch the grand lakeside hotel and we all agreed: that is where we are staying next time.

Later we stopped at Johnston Canyon, a family‑friendly walk that winds its way along catwalks bolted to the rock face, past turquoise pools and tumbling waterfalls.

The Icefields Parkway to Jasper: One of the World’s Great Drives

The next day we drove the Icefields Parkway from Banff to Jasper, often described as one of the most beautiful highways in the world, and it is easy to see why. The road threads through the heart of the Rockies, past glaciers, deep valleys and impossibly blue lakes.

A highlight for us was Peyto Lake, where a short walk brings you to a viewpoint over a lake so vividly turquoise it almost looks Photoshopped. Our wildlife luck continued: at one point a black bear and her cub were grazing at the side of the highway. We watched from a safe distance, completely spellbound. It was one of those moments that you know will stay with you forever.

We also visited the Athabasca Glacier, part of the vast Columbia Icefield. The excursion in the giant “monster truck” style Ice Explorer vehicles was a huge hit. There is something very surreal about driving onto ancient ice and stepping out into a world of creaks, cracks and pure white. Standing there, surrounded by mountains and ice that has been there for thousands of years, you really feel the power of nature.

After a few more waterfall stops along the way, we rolled into Jasper under bright sunshine. We spent a blissful afternoon by the pool at the Fairmont Jasper, soaking up the mountain views, before heading out on an evening wildlife‑spotting tour. We saw plenty of elk and deer, plus bald eagles surveying their domain from the treetops. No bears that evening, but the scenery more than made up for it.

Clearwater & Wells Gray: Rapids and Waterfalls

From Jasper we had a longer driving day to Clearwater, the gateway to Wells Gray Provincial Park, known for its dramatic waterfalls and wild feel. Our main reason for stopping was the white‑water rafting, and it did not disappoint.

It turned out to be the best rafting I have ever done: grade 4 rapids, a fantastic, safety‑conscious yet fun‑loving team, and just the right mix of adrenaline and scenery. We hiked to a waterfall where the brave could jump into the pool below, and later we were able to jump into the fast‑flowing river and float alongside the raft. The kids thought it was the best thing ever.

Whistler: Zip Lines, Lakes and Mountain Vibes

Next up was Whistler, with a quick lunchtime swim stop en route to break up the drive. Arriving in Whistler felt a bit like stepping into an alpine playground designed for families. 

There is such a great vibe in summer: street performers, patios buzzing with people, mountain bikers covered in dust, and families wandering between lakes and lifts. We took the famous Peak 2 Peak Gondola, which glides between Whistler and Blackcomb mountains high above the valley floor. The views are outstanding, with endless ridges fading into the distance and the chance to spot bears in the meadows below.

I also faced one of my own fears: heights. My husband and youngest signed up for the full‑on Sasquatch zip line, which is a staggering 2 km long. They came back on an absolute high, declaring it the best thing they had ever done. I opted for the next level down and, despite screaming my way along the first line, I actually ended up enjoying it. Flying above the forest with the mountains all around is an incredible sensation.

We also enjoyed what might be the most beautiful bike ride I have ever done. We hired bikes in the village and followed the Valley Trail, cycling from central Whistler out to Lost Lake, Green Lake and Alta Lake. The path winds through forest and along shorelines, with plenty of spots to stop for a swim to cool off.

Vancouver Island & Tofino: Markets, Bears and Pacific Sunsets

From Whistler we drove to Vancouver and boarded the ferry to Vancouver Island. The sailing itself is part of the adventure, weaving between forested islands with the chance to spot whales and eagles if you keep a lookout on deck.

We made a quick overnight stop in Parksville before driving across to the wilder west coast and Tofino, now familiar to many from “Race Across the World”. The road across the island is beautiful, twisting through mountains and dense rainforest. A surprise highlight was a stop at the wonderfully quirky Goats on the Roof Market. As the name suggests, there are actual goats grazing on the grass‑covered roof, which delighted the everyone. Inside, it is a fabulous farmers market with delicious doughnuts, fresh local produce and a huge craft store. A very worthwhile pit‑stop.

Tofino itself felt cooler in temperature than the interior, but we were not there for sunbathing. This was all about bears. We joined a bear‑watching trip by rigid inflatable boat, kitted out in flattering Arctic‑style suits. Skimming along the inlets, we spotted harbour porpoises and seals before finding what we had come for: Vancouver Island black bears foraging along the shoreline at low tide. We saw several bears, but the most memorable was a solitary female who was completely relaxed in our presence. We watched quietly as she turned over rocks in search of shellfish for a good 20 minutes, totally absorbed in her world. It was an amazing privilege to observe her from the water without disturbing her. Our Tofino stay was rounded off by a couple of classic west‑coast sunsets over the Pacific.

Victoria: Gardens and Giants of the Sea

Our next stop was Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, which has a lovely, almost European feel with its historic harbour and flower‑filled streets. From here we joined a whale‑watching trip that turned into a real wildlife extravaganza. We saw humpback whales, orcas cruising through the water, sea lions lounging on rocks, and more bald eagles overhead. We also visited the famous Butchart Gardens, which lived up to their reputation with immaculate lawns, colourful borders and themed gardens that even kept the children’s attention thanks to the variety of paths, ponds and hidden corners.

Vancouver: Urban Energy and Coastal Views

Our final stop was Vancouver, an effortlessly cool and liveable city framed by mountains and ocean. 

We hired bikes again to cycle around the seawall in Stanley Park, a must‑do for families. The circular route is flat and easy, with constant views of the city skyline, beaches, forest and mountains. There are plenty of places to stop for an ice cream or to explore the totem poles and playgrounds.

We also took the little ferry across to Granville Island, which is a brilliant place to wander for a few hours. Everyone loved the huge indoor food market and spotting the artists at work in their studios, and we loved the laid‑back waterside atmosphere.

Lasting Impressions of Our Canadian Adventure

Canada gave us everything we were hoping for and more: jaw‑dropping landscapes, memorable wildlife encounters, and adventure, all wrapped up in a road trip that worked brilliantly for our family. From that very first glimpse of the Rockies leaving Calgary to our last cycle around Stanley Park, it was a holiday full of “wow” moments and shared experiences that we will be talking about for years.