I have been lucky to go to India many, many times, but it was the first time for my partner, so I was keen to plan an itinerary that took in the highlights of this amazing country as well as some R&R.  Our itinerary brought both worlds together: New Delhi, Agra, Ranthambore and Jaipur, followed by an elegant change of pace in coastal Kerala with Fort Kochi and the sleepy fishing village of Mararikulam, with amazing sights and landmarks, carefully chosen character properties and just the right amount of downtime.

New Delhi: First Impressions of India

Our adventure began in New Delhi, India’s capital and a city of striking contrasts. The broad, leafy avenues and grand government buildings of New Delhi feel almost European at first glance. Just a short drive away, the tangled lanes, spice‑laden bazaars and centuries‑old mosques of Old Delhi plunge you into medieval India.

We chose to stay at The Oberoi New Delhi, a modern classic with serene views across to UNESCO‑listed Humayun’s Tomb and a neighbouring golf course. After an overnight arrival and immediate check‑in, the first day was deliberately gentle: breakfast, time to rest, perhaps a quiet swim or a drink overlooking the city skyline as we got used to the time change and the atmosphere and pace of Delhi.

The following morning, we headed to Old Delhi on a guided walk with the Salaam Baalak Trust, an NGO supporting former street children who now lead immersive heritage walks. Seeing the city through their eyes is a powerful way to understand its layers of history and real‑life stories.

From here, we had a deeper look into the city’s treasures: the colossal Qutub Minar complex in Mehrauli, where a 72‑metre sandstone tower rises above ancient tombs and an enigmatic rust‑free iron pillar, then the exquisite gardens and double‑domed architecture of Humayun’s Tomb, the forerunner to the Taj Mahal. Driving back through New Delhi, we passes India Gate and the British‑era boulevards that frame this modern capital.

Agra: Sunrise at the Taj Mahal

No first visit to India is complete without seeing the Taj Mahal, and Agra was our next stop. We took the Gatimaan Express train brings south from Delhi, swapping city suburbs for fields and villages before arriving in Agra.

After a warm welcome and check‑in at the Grand Mercure Agra, it was time to head to Agra Fort. With its red sandstone ramparts curving along the Yamuna River and its palaces, audience halls and gardens inside, the fort provides a powerful counterpoint to the Taj. It was here that Emperor Shah Jahan, who built the Taj Mahal, was later imprisoned by his own son, forced to gaze across at his masterpiece from a distance.

The defining moment was the next morning when we headed to the Taj Mahal for sunrise. Walking through the great gateway as the sun begins to rise, you watch the milky‑white marble monument change colour with the first light, its delicate dome and minarets reflected in long water channels. Knowing it was built over two decades by thousands of artisans, with inlaid semi‑precious stones from across Asia, only adds to its impact. It is one of those rare places that truly lives up to its legend.

Before leaving the Agra region, we went to Fatehpur Sikri, the remarkably well‑preserved “ghost city” that briefly served as the Mughal capital. Within its vast walls lie palaces, courtyards and a magnificent mosque, all abandoned when the court moved on. The sense of walking through an empty yet intact city from the 16th century is unforgettable.

Ranthambore: In Search of Tigers

From Fatehpur Sikri, we travelled by road to the small train station at Bharatpur, then by train into Rajasthan and on to Sawai Madhopur which is the gateway to Ranthambore National Park. Here, we stayed at The Tigress Ranthambhore, a heritage‑style resort that feels like a comfortable sanctuary between game drives, with a pool, spa and leafy grounds.

Ranthambore is one of India’s premier tiger reserves, its rugged hills, lakes, ruined temples and ancient fort creating a wonderfully atmospheric backdrop for wildlife viewing. Over the course of your stay, shared jeep safaris take you out at dawn and late afternoon with an expert naturalist.

While tigers are the star of the show, the park teems with life: sambar and spotted deer, langur monkeys leaping between the trees, crocodiles sunning themselves by the lakes and a kaleidoscope of birdlife. The thrill of rounding a bend to find a Bengal tiger pausing in the early light or padding along a dusty track is hard to describe, and even without a sighting, the landscapes themselves are spectacular.

Jaipur: Palaces, Forts and Pink‑washed Streets

Leaving the forests of Ranthambore behind, our next stop was Jaipur, Rajasthan’s famed “Pink City”. Founded by Maharaja Jai Singh II and later painted a distinctive terracotta hue in honour of a royal visit, Jaipur remains one of India’s most evocative cities, with its blend of royal palaces, hilltop forts and bustling bazaars.

Here we stayed at Royal Heritage Haveli, an 18th‑century retreat that feels like a quiet world within the city. With leafy courtyards, an inviting pool, yoga sessions and elegant suites in rich colours and patterned floors, it is a charming base for exploring.

A morning visit to Amber Fort sets the tone, reached by jeep up the hillside. High above a lake and encircled by snaking ramparts, Amber is a superb example of Rajput architecture, with its courtyards, pillared halls and chambers adorned with frescoes, marble and glittering mirror work.

Returning to the city, we did for the classic photo stop at Hawa Mahal, the “Palace of Winds”, whose intricate pink façade is all ornate windows and niches, once used by royal women to watch street life unseen.

In the afternoon, we explored the City Palace complex, still partly occupied by Jaipur’s royal family and home to galleries of textiles, arms and art. Next door, the Jantar Mantar observatory surprises with its giant sculptural instruments. Built in the 18th century, these precise stone constructions can still measure time, the positions of stars and planetary movements with remarkable accuracy.

Jaipur also offers wonderful shopping opportunities, from block‑printed textiles and jewellery to handicrafts and colourful homewares. With a guide on hand, it is easy to tailor a little browsing to your interests.

Fort Kochi: Spice Routes and Storytelling

From Jaipur, we took an evening flight south via Hyderabad, swapping Rajasthan’s desert palette for the lush greens of Kerala. By the time you arrive in Kochi, the air feels softer, scented with the sea and spice‑laden breezes.

Our home in Kochi was the Eighth Bastion, a 19‑room boutique property in the heart of Fort Kochi. Inspired by Dutch nautical history, it blends colonial and contemporary design with a relaxed, intimate feel.

Fort Kochi itself, with its narrow streets and faded pastel façades, tells the story of centuries of trade. Churches, old mansions and leafy lanes reveal Portuguese, Dutch and British influences.

Nearby Mattancherry and Jew Town offer a different facet again. Antique shops line the alleyways, stacked with everything from carved wooden doors to brass lamps and vintage curios. The Paradesi Synagogue, one of the oldest in India, captivates visitors with its blue‑and‑white Chinese floor tiles, Belgian glass chandeliers and centuries‑old Torah scrolls.

Down by the waterfront, the famous Chinese fishing nets create a distinctive silhouette against the sky. Introduced by traders long ago, these cantilevered contraptions are still operated by teams of fishermen, their rhythmic movements a timeless sight.

We also had the opportunity to take in a Kathakali performance, Kerala’s iconic dance‑drama. As the performers emerge in elaborate costumes and painted faces, accompanied by musicians and singers, stories from Hindu epics unfold through precise gesture, expression and rhythm. Watching the transformation from behind the scenes or attending a make‑up demonstration beforehand adds another layer to the experience.

Mararikulam: Slow Days on the Arabian Sea

After so much touring, it was time to slow down. A short drive south brought us to Mararikulam, an unhurried coastal village where fishermen still head out in traditional boats and the beach feels refreshingly under‑developed.

Our final base was Marari Beach Resort, set in coconut groves and gardens just behind the sand. Built in harmony with its surroundings, the resort uses natural materials and traditional techniques, with charming thatched cottages and villas scattered among hibiscus and palm trees. Many cottages open onto private garden spaces, and the whole place feels rooted in its community.

Here, the focus is on gentle pleasures. Mornings might begin with yoga or an Ayurvedic treatment, followed by a long, lazy breakfast. Days melt into each other between the pool, walks along the beach, watching the fishermen bring in their catch and lingering over fresh Keralan cuisine.

The resort’s experiences are quietly immersive rather than showy: cookery demonstrations at the farm kitchen, local cultural performances, or simply a book in the shade of a palm. There is no rush, no rigid schedule, just time to absorb the subtler charms of Kerala’s coast.

The flight back to the UK gave me time to truly  reflect on everything we saw: the marble perfection of the Taj at sunrise, the thrill of tiger country at Ranthambore, Jaipur’s intricate pink façades and astronomical instruments, the atmospheric streets of Fort Kochi and the soothing rhythm of Marari’s waves.

This Golden Triangle and Kerala itinerary is an ideal introduction to India.  It shows just how diverse India can be within a single trip: intense and exhilarating, yet also deeply restorative. With thoughtful pacing, carefully chosen accommodation and private guiding throughout, it is a route that works as beautifully for first‑timers as it does for those returning to discover a different side of this remarkable country.

If you would like a tailored version of this journey for your own India adventure, with flights, room types and experiences adjusted to your preferences, simply get in touch and I will design it around you.