Touching down in Lomé around midnight, I was not expecting much more than a quick transfer and a basic bed. Instead, my first impression of Togo was  colourful cool.  Lomé became my home for the first two nights. A representative met me at the airport, and within about 10 minutes I was pulling up outside a bright, funky property that felt more boutique city pad than airport hotel.

• Warm, welcoming service (even at midnight).
• A surprisingly good restaurant with tasty, well presented food.
• A large swimming pool surrounded by stylish outdoor spaces.
• Modern, attractive furnishings that felt fresh and thoughtfully designed.

It was far better than I had expected: the sort of place that immediately makes you think, “OK, this trip is going to be fun.”

A whistle stop tour of Lomé: chaos, colour and character

My first full day was dedicated to discovering Lomé, Togo’s capital and beating heart. With a population of around 2.18 million, it feels like the whole country is funnelled through its streets, and by the end of the day I was pretty sure I had met most of them.

Lomé is:

• Noisy and hectic
• Absolutely motorbike-mad
• Surprisingly friendly and fun to explore

The Grand Marché: “Très, très, très grand”

If you visit Lomé, you cannot miss the Grand Marché. In fact, you physically cannot miss it: it sprawls for what feels like miles, blending indoor halls with outdoor alleyways and endless stalls.

Here you can find:

• Piles of fruit and vegetables
• Clothing and fabrics
• Household goods
• Tyres, beds and everything in between

On the surface it feels chaotic, especially to a first timer. But watch a little longer and you see the order beneath the madness: systems, routines and a rhythm that the locals know instinctively.

From the market, our city tour continued with a “fly by” of key sights: the university, development banks, the stadium, the presidential complex, long sandy beaches and a scattering of grand statues and monuments that hint at the country’s complex history.

Independence Monument: a symbol of freedom

One of those key landmarks is the Independence Monument of Lomé, a striking national symbol commemorating Togo’s independence from France on 27 April 1960.

The monument features a carved figure shown breaking free of chains, an unmissable representation of the country’s journey to freedom. Just across the road is the Palais des Congrès convention centre, another reminder that modern Togo is looking forwards as well as back.

Voodoo, tradition and uncomfortable truths

Togo is part of the cradle of voodoo, and it would have been impossible to visit without delving into this important spiritual tradition. One of the most fascinating, and at times challenging, stops on my journey was a voodoo fetish market.

This is not a place for the faint-hearted. Stalls display all manner of animal parts and elements, all used to create traditional medicines for physical and mental ailments.

As an animal lover, seeing monkey heads, dog skulls and other remains was uncomfortable and confronting. Yet it was also an important cultural insight into a belief system that is central to life for many in this region.

The visit was made even more memorable by the chance to meet a voodoo priest, who blessed a small token for me for safe travel. Whether you view it as faith, folklore or somewhere in between, it was a powerful moment of connection with local spirituality.

Koumy House: stepping into a living artwork

If there is one place in Lomé that made my heart absolutely sing, it was Koumy House.

Imagine walking through a gate and being instantly wrapped in colour, joy and creativity. That is Koumy House: the life’s work of Belgian–Togolese painter and sculptor Jean Koumy, who has spent 15 years building his own vibrant sanctuary.

Here you will find:

• Bright, bold paintings that spill across walls
• Whimsical sculptures taking over courtyards and corners
• A house that feels like it is breathing art in every room

Jean still works on site every day, and visitors can purchase original pieces while seeing the setting that inspired them. It is one of those places where you cannot stop smiling. 

Sacred Heart Cathedral: echoes of the German era

Lomé’s Sacred Heart Cathedral, often referred to as the German Cathedral, is a striking reminder of the city’s colonial past. Built between 1902 and 1913 when Germany administered the territory, it stands out with its:

• Distinctive red brick exterior
• Gothic-inspired design and imposing towers

The cathedral sits right in the middle of the Grand Marché, so you get this wonderful contrast between solemn religious architecture and the lively, everyday bustle of city life swirling all around it.

Into the hills: Kpalimé and the Attitovou Kente Weaving Village

Leaving the capital behind, I headed north-west towards Kpalimé, a greener, more mountainous region known for its craftsmanship and cooler climate. About an hour from Lomé we stopped at the Attitovou Kente Weaving Village, a working village where weaving is not just a craft but a livelihood and a heritage.

• Men are trained as weavers in the intricate art of kente cloth.
• They work with three woven threads which results in different patterns on each side of the cloth.
• Beautifully decorated strips are produced and worn as scarves or kept as family heirlooms, passed down through generations.
• The women of the village manage the home, cooking and washing, and support the wider community rhythm.

The villagers were incredibly welcoming, happy to share both their daily life and the pride they take in preserving these skills. It was a fascinating couple of hours, and a reminder that textiles can tell the story of a people as clearly as any book.

Hotel Parc Residence, Kpalimé & surrounds My next base was a peaceful oasis tucked away in the countryside near Kpalimé. After the bustle of Lomé, arriving here felt like exhaling.

Highlights included:

• A huge, recently renovated room in the new wing (probably the largest non-suite room I have ever stayed in).
• A gigantic balcony perfect for enjoying the warm evenings.
• Simple, tasteful décor with a truly stunning bathroom.
• Excellent air conditioning and reliable WiFi.
• A fantastic restaurant with plenty of choice and really good food.

The hotel is still undergoing renovations, but that did not detract from the experience. In fact, it felt a little like being let in on a secret before the rest of the world discovers it.

Hiking Togo’s second-highest mountain

One of my favourite experiences in the Kpalimé region was a 90-minute hike up Togo’s second-largest mountain with a local naturalist. Surrounded by lush forest, we stopped frequently as he pointed out plants, leaves and trees, explaining their many uses:

• Traditional medicines
• Cooking ingredients
• Natural dyes for textiles
• Even how to create a natural tattoo

The weather turned slightly overcast as we reached the top, so the views were hazy. On a clear day you can apparently see all the way to Nigeria. Even without the postcard panorama, the walk itself was a joy: slow, mindful and full of quiet discoveries.

Atakpamé: markets on the plateau

Continuing north, we reached Atakpamé, the fifth largest city in Togo, set in the plateau region. This is an area famed for its agriculture, which you really feel when you step into the local market.

Stalls groan under the weight of:

• Yams
• Fresh fruit
• Cocoa and coffee
• Every other kind of produce you can imagine

It is the sort of place where “farm to table” is not a concept, it is simply life.

Night magic in Sokodé: the fire dance

If there is one experience from Togo that will stay with me forever, it is the fire dance in Sokodé.

Picture this:

• You are sitting in almost complete darkness.
• Drums beat in a deep, rhythmic pattern that you feel in your chest.
• Then, men appear, flames in hand, and begin a ritual dance that defies belief.

The performers are not “trained” in any conventional sense. Locals will tell you they are born with this ability, passed down through generations. They:

• Run blazing torches along their arms and across their bodies.
• Place the flames on their tongues and into their mouths.
• Bite off chunks of burning embers, chewing the glowing wood.

It is jaw-dropping, slightly terrifying and utterly unforgettable.

Hotel Nassam, Sokodé

Sokodé is Togo’s second largest city, but in terms of quality hotels, the options are limited. I stayed at Hotel Nassam and, to be candid, it was very basic.

Positives:

• The staff were kind and  carried my suitcase up three flights of stairs.
• The room did, indeed, have a bed.

And sometimes, on a trip like this, that is enough. This is a journey for those who value experiences over thread counts, and Sokodé delivers in culture what it lacks in comfort.

The Horse Dance: strength, pride and pageantry

Sokodé is known for its International Horse Festival, a major cultural event that celebrates the horsemanship of the Tchaoudjo region. I was lucky enough to enjoy a taste of this tradition with a choreographed horse dance and parade.

Key impressions:

• Riders and horses performing tightly choreographed movements.
• Intricately decorated traditional costumes, each one signalling a particular tribe.
• A real sense of pride and pageantry, with horse and rider working as one.

It is a deeply local celebration of identity, skill and strength.

Bafilo: weaving a future at the Tem Weavers Centre

In Bafilo, I visited the Tem Weavers Centre, a community initiative with a powerful purpose. As more young people leave rural areas for the city in search of work, small towns and villages risk losing both their population and their traditions.

Centres like this offer:

• Training for children and young people in traditional weaving skills.
• A pathway to set up small businesses and earn an income.
• A way to keep family units together and sustain village life.

It is not just about textiles, it is about resilience, identity and opportunity.

Tchare blacksmith village: living metalwork history

Further north, in the Kara region, lies Tchare (also written Tsaré), a village renowned for its traditional blacksmithing. Here, the art of smelting and forging iron has been passed down through generations, still practised using:

• Handheld bellows rather than modern machinery
• Large rocks to shape hot, molten iron instead of mechanical hammers

Watching the blacksmiths work is like stepping back in time. Sparks fly, metal sings and age-old techniques live on in calloused hands and careful eyes.

Hotel Kara, Kara

By the time I reached Kara, the sight of Hotel Kara felt like a small slice of luxury.

This property offered:

• A large swimming pool to cool off after long dusty days.
• An outdoor bar and a wood-panelled dining room that added a touch of old-school charm.
• A spacious bedroom with a gigantic (if very firm) bed.
• Strong air conditioning and good WiFi.

A wedding party had hired the hotel during my stay, which meant we also “enjoyed” exuberant African dance music until around 2 am. Depending on your perspective, that is either a drawback or an excellent chance to absorb local party culture without leaving your room.

And then: towards the border…

From Kara, my journey continued towards the northern border, ready to cross into Benin and begin country number 92. But that is another story entirely.

Togo left me with a kaleidoscope of impressions:

• A capital city that buzzes with energy and character.
• Deeply rooted spiritual and cultural traditions, some challenging, all fascinating.
• Communities working hard to preserve crafts like weaving and blacksmithing.
• Landscapes that range from chaotic markets to peaceful forests and plateaus.

It is a country that asks you to step outside your comfort zone, then rewards you with warmth, colour and memories that burn as bright.

If you love authentic travel, cultural immersion and want to recount stories your friends will not hear at any other cocktail party back home, Togo deserves a place on your list.